Tuesday, October 27, 2015

Return of the Little Dog Post- Happy Halloween!

My dear Sister died in 2008 after a years-long fight with cancer. She was determined, valiant and tiger-hearted. She taught kindergarten until practically her last day. I can't do her justice here, but you need to know or the rest seems more unlikely. I was lucky, lucky to be close (after a career collapse, but who knows what is good and what is bad, ultimately) so I could be with her every day. Her struggle was mine. I could never be part of her pain and physical struggle but I would have taken it on if I could.
When she died, I lost the mainstay of my life and went through a grief that left me on the "blasted heath" with King Lear, buffeted by winds and weather. She was such a part of my emotional life but also my everyday.  And everyday life is what propels you forward.
A year later my little dog Cleo passed away, she was sweet and completely devoted to me. She would follow me from room to room laying on the rug in the bathroom when I showered or under the table when I sewed. No beauty, a little snaggled toothed with cropped pointed ears and a touch of gargoyle around the eyes. She hated riding in the car but on the rare occasions I took her out people would ask "What kind of dog IS she?" I loved her.
So when both my parents fell ill at almost the same time, I was just starting to feel the cascades of grief had started to ebb. My Mother in the hospital after cancer surgery, my Father getting a pace maker for a faulty ticker and Cleo starting to make an appearance in the kitchen or under the table.
This stressed me even more. I would see her out of the corner of my eye all the time. Under the table where she loved to hide but still keep an eye on the world or in the kitchen by the water dish that was out for my mother's dog.  I would tell her I had nothing for her, she was beyond my reach. It felt like another needy soul and I was tapped out. I started to have the stabbing feeling under my left shoulder blade like I had when my sister was sick.
I kept this mostly to myself, knowing it made me sound crazy. I was very aware that the level of stress I was under could very well be the cause. Super natural experience or hallucinations of a disordered mind- it's a toss up.
After my Mother came home from the hospital she wanted a little company and asked her friend Elizabeth to dinner on Sunday. After a few hours when dinner was over she asked me "Where's  your little dog?"  I told her, reluctantly, that Cleo had died the year before, she said "I saw her under the table when I walked in the house" I said it was my Mother's little dog, Amorsito. She said "No, he was on the sofa".
 The jig was up.
I told her I saw her all the time. She gave me such a look of incredulity and said the hair on her arms stood on end. I told her it was fine, she was just keeping me company. And you know after that I felt comforted by her. I realized she didn't want anything from me, just to keep me company. After that I saw her less and less, and then not at all.
My Father died two months later, my Mother is fine. Cleo stays wherever she lives now.
I do wonder if our bias for words is what keeps us from understanding the depths of attachment and emotion of the animals who share our lives. Are they self-aware vis-a-vis our relationship with them or on their own? It's a little arrogant to think so, I know.

Happy Halloween from me and Cleo, wherever she is!
Spectral image to the right of her is an actual spot on the Polaroid, don't be alarmed
Ever Your Thimble Servant,
Miss Brilliantine

Monday, October 12, 2015

Make with the Pants, Already!

This is a great pants pattern, I've made it multiple times, so has my friend Athene. They look great on us both, she's tall, I'm 5'5". I love a nice wide leg, I say bah! to the skinny jean, you heard me. (I see many school groups of teenagers at the Museum were I occasionally work and the skinny looks bad on all of them, slim, fat, tall, short. It really isn't a good look on anyone.) However they need pockets, I've amended this defect by finding a nice pocket from some long forgotten 70's pattern and over laid it. See.
With my frankenpattern blouse, Rocket Original sandals and reproduction metal picnic basket from World Market
It likes the pocketses!
And it's not just for denim, I had some mystery wool with just a bit of stretch deep, deep in the boxes.
I'm comin' atcha'! With a handbag.
 No one should be cinched when bifurcated,  I like the slight bagginess in the rise. They are super quick to make, show me your version.
And this goof-ball hat, probably from the 40's but with a different tassel. I'm guessing it was originally something soft like rayon because the jet swings and hits you in the eye.....fashion!
I'm about to start another big 1880's ball gown for November, I'll keep you posted.




Ever Your Thimble Servant,
Miss Brilliantine

Wednesday, September 23, 2015

Bride of Frankenpattern!

I'm all about the frankenpattern these days. Also I'm loving the pattern mixing. To that end I bring you Bride of Frankenpattern, the skirt!
Sure, it may look like an innocent dress, but it will be used for parts! And since today is the Autumnal Equinox, I made it in tweed. Because even though it's 98, it's still Autumn. The pattern had conveniently been pinned up for shortening in the envelope, thanks to an anonymous lady from the 1930's. These skirts tend to be very long. What with the 3 1/2" allowance for a hem.
Thanks anonymous lady, you saved me a step!

Let's all play find the seam allowance. Here's a hint, they make you work for it. 

Over-dyed for a better match
I like to over dye cotton tape zippers, or "slide fasteners" as they called them. I'm fastidious about some things but not others. I really hate a bulky waist band, they are for suckers. I prefer a nice flat grosgrain ribbon binding. Purist might want to look away now.
Nice and flat, like mama like.

This is the pattern mixing part
Big houndstooth jacket (I think he was a Blues musician) and a shorty sweater with vintage buttons and we are done. It practically makes itself! Look to see me wearing it sometime in December, because I can't even imagine cool weather, it's been so long.
Ever Your Thimble Servant,
Miss Brilliantine.



Tuesday, September 15, 2015

And You'll Find that You're in the Rotogravure


Road trip to the Gatsby Summer Afternoon, was as always, well worth the trip. We drove up to the Bay Area on Saturday, caught up with friends, had a little dinner, a drinky and were up early for the making of sandwiches and the packing of baskets. Here are the photos, you are warned.

Frankendress was a success, if a little slouchy.
Daniel (you elegant fowl) and the fabulous Autumn

Angela of "La Chatelaine Chocolat"
Just flippin' fab!
Sartorial splendor worthy of a stroll in the 'bois'

Caitlin with Chris, she made this bathing suit from a Target sweater, cut off the sleeves and used then for the trunks. Genius!
A fine example of the great costuming on display here.
"The Austrian Woman", Michael, Todi and Cynthia.
Baggy pants shenanigans!

Lounging on the beach, with lifeguards, ladies and beach pajamas.

Kendra giving that far-away look.
More shenanigans with Lifeguard Liam!
This year was a sell out, I think about 1000 people including vintage cars and bathtub gin. The weather was lovely after a few days of a hot spell and there was nothing to do but eat, drink, wander, dance and mooch treats from picnic pals. A roaring success!
On to the next!
Ever Your Thimble Servant,
Miss Brilliantine

Tuesday, September 8, 2015

The 500 Hats of Miss Brilliantine

I love hats.
Parasols, gloves, shoes, you get the idea. I was going to make this adorable free hat pattern from the blog Whatifound.
Then didn't. Riffle through the boxes, get out the lining, follow the pictures. Maybe later.
 Instead I dug deep and found a straw hat blank that had never been blocked and still had the tag. So I got out my 99c Store plastic place mat and set to work making a "block", I used the term loosely.
I cut the edge out and then a disc from the plastic and taped them together.

Just enough structure to give it shape after a quick immersion in hot water.

A little sunshine to set it.


Voila! Add ribbon until satisfied. Not sure about the daisies, they may get replaced with something more serious.

This is why we need a stash. It all came from there, the straw, the ribbon, the daisies. It will look very well with the frankendress. And my little round sunglasses and my parasol and my re-mix shoes. I think I'm done.
Every Your Thimble Etc.
Miss Brilliantine

Monday, August 31, 2015

Frankenpattern...............Good!

When last we left Summertime, I was going to frankenpattern a blouse from a dress. Instead I thought I'd make a dress from many dresses. Why do it the easy way. Actually, this is just as easy as using all the same pattern pieces and more fun. Have a look at
the finalists.
Vogue pattern at the bottom was used as the bodice with a little extension to make it waist length.
Bodice from one pattern, skirt from another and sleeve from the third. Don't let different seam allowances scare you. The truth is the openings need to match, so a 30" bodice opening needs a skirt that's 30'' at the top. No one will measure your seem allowances unless you are in home-EC. Believe me, I've been doing this since I learned to sew. I make a pattern as shown only half the the time, the rest I improvise. That's why we ALL need a lot of patterns. Yeah.
This bodice ends  mid-rib, I just extended it to make it waist length.  
I wanted to take some of the fullness out of the sleeve top, not wanting it so puff-tastic. Probably not the way I was taught but it works.  This won't work if you need a sleeve with no ease at the top, but this fits with slight gathers, who's to know. They sold assorted sleeve patterns in the 30's so you could mix and match. Just as they sold patterns for collars, dickeys etc.
Skirt was pretty straight forward, it just has to match the bodice opening.



Presto!
It's alive!
And a bit of whimsy.
Now I need a hat, I have a few but also have a really cute 30's pattern, so we'll see. I'll be wearing this to the Gatsby Summer Afternoon at the Dunsmuir Estate in Oakland this September. I'm splitting the difference and calling it late 1930's, in case you wondered.
Hope to see you there!

Ever Your Thimble Servant,
Miss Brilliantine

Tuesday, August 11, 2015

More from the 99c Store

Well.
Summer is still lingering. Sometimes they are energetic fun filled, high-jink Summers, sometimes not. This Summer not so much. I did have a great time giving a class at Costume College, called the 99c Store Costumer, it was a lot of fun and people were very kind.  Afterward, I mostly lurked in the shadows admiring all the talent on display. My friend Chantal and I skirted the edges like Victorian crossing sweeps, all in awe.
I did want to post a couple more hacks that were well received.

Hack the first- place mat template
Cock-a-doodle-do it!

These are made from flexible plastic, easy to cut to shape. I cut it out as scallops for the bottom of an 1880's dress, they LOVED their scallops. This pliable material would work great for stencils too. Someone mentioned that they charge $15 at Michael's for a sheet of this plastic. I say it's definitely worth 99c 
Hack the second- hair donut chignon
Mmmmmm, donut
Cut it apart and re-shape it at will

Braid sewn onto the mesh with a comb added.
Sure, it's my own hair........
They are made of  mesh and once you cut them apart you can use them for all your fake hair needs. Roll two of them into a pompadour hair support, make them small for Victory rolls or flatten the mesh out and sew your chignon to it. If you you are lucky you can also find the fake hair switches there. This piece is from the 99c store, I've seen it in various blondes and once a gorgeous strawberry red. They are probably made from recycled water bottles, so you can't dye them.

Next time actual sewing content, I need a 1930's blouse pattern and will franken-pattern it from a dress.
Ever Your Thimble Servant,
Miss Brilliantine