Sunday, June 26, 2016

Outlander at the Paley

The Paley Center for Media has a wonderful exhibit on now, the Artistry of Outlander. A gallery full of costumes and set design, beautifully staged.

So much attention has been given to the Dior suit and the red dress, that the brilliance of the other costumes have been overshadowed. This is a close up look at the great detail involved in the making of these suits. I was really impressed by the men's costumes, the embroidery was fantastic. Of course it is all machine done, but so well it's a marvel.

Nice detail of  one of Bonny Prince C's suits.

It holds-up to close-up scrutiny.

As much as I liked the women's clothes the men's suits were remarkable. 

Gorgeous


This trim, on close inspection turned out to be the bars from hook and bar closures, sewn very close together! It is genius.

The back of the apothecary's coat, you only get  glimpses of it on screen. The rest of the of the embellishment is embroidery in nightmarish motifs.
All the dresses are there. The Dior suit, the red dress and the brown embroidered, banyans etc.
This exhibit runs through August 14. If you plan to be in the Los Angles area for Costume College, I'd put a trip to Beverly Hills on the agenda, about the only thing you can do in BH for free./https://media.paleycenter.org/

Ever Your Thimble Servant,
Miss Brilliantine

Tuesday, June 14, 2016

We Make an Impression(ism)


The weather was beautiful, Southern California in June can be cloudy, drizzly or 110. It's a toss up.
We all must have been very, very good because we got perfection. A beautiful blue sky with lofty clouds and a gentle breeze. The only hick-up was the loss of the croquet wickets. This year the team rivals of Temperance v. Drunkards had to make it a drinking contest, guess who won.
The ladies, hard by a fountain. Walter photo bombs them.
The light is amazing with the mountains in the deep background. Some people like the beach, I love a mountain 
The location is Rancho Camulos in Piru, the place where Helen Hunt Jackson stayed right before she wrote "Ramona". Yup, History.
This is an annual picnic, it's had a few locations, this is our fourth year at the Rancho, I think we have found our home.
Anyway, blah, blah, explanations. A picture is worth a thousand words. You can fill them in.
Paul and Niko, you guess which is which.

Boris bombs Doreen and Alan

Oh, Dow! Lorraine and Athene are tolerant.

Walter, Sheila put down those plates!

Cal and Rover, first timers but old friends.

Charles, pensive. Will it be gin punch or champagne next?

The Chief! Or as we like to call him "Angus McKilty"
We requireonly three things, eating, drinking and lounging.

Athene, pretty as a picture. She better be toasting me....
The gentlemen were adamant, they wanted to show off their bustles. Chuck is the only one horrified. Sigh

It's like you where there! Come out to So. Ca. next Spring and you will be.
Ever Your Thimble Servant,
Miss Brilliantine

Thursday, June 2, 2016

I'm Behind My Time

I owe a post about the wonderful ball at Bath in the Assembly Rooms. I have to source the pictures because I took so few. In the mean time.... a project!
I have an annual picnic looming and need to get it together if I want a new dress. Trouble is too many options. I know, what a dilemma. This spotty cotton, that abstract floral, cotton organdy trim, pleats, flounces. UGH!
I think I've hit on the bodice detail, I love the look of the faux bolero.
She looks a little grim, but I love her lacey bolero front and my that hat!

Another version of the false lace front. I THINK it's lace.....

Pinned up, I think I'm liking it.

Full frontal 
The inspiration for the bottom half. A little swish, a little swag, a little drape. The usual.
This is all there is of this lace, so it will be mix and match. Slowly, slowly getting back the enthusiasm for bigger projects.
Ever Your Thimble Servant,
Miss Brilliantine

Tuesday, April 19, 2016

One of These Things is Not Like the Other

This old thing edition.
Most of us tweak a dress after it's worn once. I had made this Worth inspired dress a yearish ago and it need a few changes. Yet unstitching to restitch is something I hate, better nature to the rescue!
We all love the Worth dress from the Philadelphia Museum of Art, judging by the number of times it's been pinned, anyway. It's what I used as an inspiration, since I don't do strict reproduction. Personally, design is the fun part for me and the sewing is the vehicle that gets me to completion.
A revival, revival. Last Saturday at the Social Daucne Irregulars Victorian Grand Ball- Accept no  imitations!

The incentive was a lucky find, the green dragonfly silk. Just enough for two panels.
Since C.F.Worth collaborated with the past, why not me?  The first go around had a lining flaw in the overskirt back, it was much too flowy and billowed out when I danced. I found some pale yellow polished cotton, the favored lining of the 19thc. and hit the sweet spot.
Back drape all behavey.
I had a picture of the guts, but I'd rather show the glory. Just like the kitchen of a fine restaurant or a ladies hair in rollers before an gala party... no one wants to see that.

What you can't see in the pictures is the spangled lace. The tiers on the underskirt and the bodice lace are sparkly with crystals. Just enough to give it movement.

One ball down and one to go! I'm going to Bath in May to attend Prior Attire's Victorian ball. I've always wanted to dance in the Assembly Rooms and here's my chance! I'll be in the purple and black, for drama's sake.

 https://www.facebook.com/SpectacularSpectacularPriorAttire/

I'll send up a flare when I get there!

Tuesday, April 12, 2016

Personal Vest or Big Plaid Onesie

I love my Sibs and my Brother was jonesing for a vest to match a pair of pants I made him late last year. He wanted a plaid-stravaganza to wear to the Social Daunce Irregulars ball this Saturday. His wish is my command.

This is the pattern I used, it went together fast and had a good fit. I only had to make a couple of adjustments.

I pinned out the darts. He doesn't need them and most of the mid-century vests I've seen don't have them. 

Presto!

I have made many welt pockets, sometime they are perfection, sometimes they are trouble. Yet I have no problems with sleeves.

Big plaid onesie? Or Thunder and lightening, as I have heard they where called in the 1850's. You be the judge.
It's like looking into a mirror!  He will be wearing a coat, of course.
This pattern is a great one for the stash. Buy it next time it goes on sale for $1.99. You may not need it now... just wait.

Ever Your Thimble Servant,
Miss Brilliantine.

Saturday, March 26, 2016

Ah, Spring!

I got out the cottons for a "Brooklyn" inspired skirt. You remember it.
Sunny and sweet.
 I don't usually make reproductions and this isn't one. But I do love the bright optimistic take on Summer this movie employed and took my palette from there. Truthfully, this movie is great but I have watched MANY a terrible flick for the color combos. Sometimes you just want to be washed over by technicolor.
 I had this Butterick pattern, which many of you already have and tweaked it.
This pocket is a quick sew and really fun.
I used the skirt portion of the pattern and added a grosgrain waistband, also shortened  it by 2"

Pocket tweak, contrast lining and knot detail.

Thought I was smiling, Ha!
I love to use the bottom halves of dress patterns for skirts. I do it all the time, it never disappoints.
I will probably wear this skirt with a cute tee and flat sandals, a lace collar blouse is a little too lamb for this mutton.

THEN THIS HAPPENED-
I was blissfully ironing away and reached for the water bottle to refill the reservoir and reached for the wrong bottle. Just like in a movie where the protagonist reaches for a bottle and instead grabs poison. That never happens, you say...
  I filled the iron with Best Press. The pricey sizing that works a treat but is not for the iron. I filled it to the brim, because Rowenta has started leaking. (What's that Rowenta? Why do I have a shotgun? Why are we going behind the shed?) And now the sewing room is redolent with the nominally pleasant smell of Spring... or starch.
Let this be a lesson to us all.

Ever Your Thimble Servant
Miss Brilliantine

Wednesday, March 9, 2016

Crimson Cinderella Wars

I had my yearly pilgrimage to see the Oscar costumes at FIDM. The museum does a wonderful job of displaying the costumes and there is a nice assortment. That means there is just a smattering of your favorites. Whichever those might be. I'll let them speak for themselves.......with captions.
Lovely in person, which is not always true of a costume meant to be photographed.

Step Mother and sisters, who wouldn't want to be evil if  so well dressed?

The back view, because I know someone is already making it-you're welcome.

Crimson Peak, a movie too scaredy for this cat, but wow!


I love the clasped hands!

The pair on the left is an original in the FIDM collection, the pair on the right are the ones copied for the film.

In the words of Ralph Wiggum, "I'm a Star Wars!"

D'oh! Rey! Me!
The Danish Girl, you can really see how big the dude is. Oh Eddie, you so pretty.

The Winner!

This movie was great and the costumes, wonderful post war wear!

Brooklyn- she looked like a sunny day, I'm inspired.

Some nice natural form Thomas Hardy action.
 I have to say, I've been inspired by the sunny, punchy candy colors of Brooklyn. I'm well on my way to making a skirt or two in happy color ways. El Nino has left us in the lurch (worst boyfriend ever) and Spring keeps on trying to come in like a lamb. I'm mining the stash for colorful cottons. I'll post.

Every Your Thimble Servant,
Miss Brilliantine